Iceland Kept Changing the Weather—and My Expectations

The rain did not fall softly during my whale-watching excursion from Reykjavík. Driven by wind, the raindrops felt like needles against my face. I had dressed for cool August weather, but I had not dressed for the cold wind off the ocean. A fellow retired service member felt sorry enough for me to retrieve one of the insulated overalls offered on the boat because I was too stubborn to leave my place at the front, even temporarily.

Then we saw whales—lots of them—and being cold didn’t matter. None breached, so I am still waiting to see that spectacle up close in the wild, but the sightings were enough. I had come to Iceland hoping for wildlife, dramatic landscapes, and cooler weather. Before the trip ended, Iceland delivered all three.

This was another solo trip in the summer of 2023. A sale helped make the decision easy, but the idea began when a friend and his wife traveled to Iceland the year before and returned enthusiastic about the experience. I also wanted to see more of London, so a Carnival Pride sailing from Dover allowed me to combine a return visit to England with several Icelandic ports and stops in the British Isles.

I began the port day in Reykjavík shopping for souvenirs, then boarded the whale-watching excursion. Because the ship remained in port long enough, due to the tides, I was also able to take a second excursion to the Blue Lagoon. On the drive, our guide casually pointed out a volcanic eruption visible in the distance. For the guide it seemed almost ordinary. For a woman from Texas, passing an active eruption on the way to a geothermal spa felt anything but ordinary.

The Blue Lagoon created its own set of contrasts. The sulfur smell initially made me nauseated, while the milky blue water made me want to photograph every angle. Once I entered the warm water, the pace of the day finally slowed. Relaxing is not my strongest travel skill—unless I’m in the Cloud 9 Spa on a Carnival ship—but as I leaned against the wall, surrounded by warm water, cool air, rising steam, and rocky terrain, I realized the experience was worth it. I was finally seeing the world on my terms. The facility requires guests to shower – there are private stalls – prior to putting on your swimsuit and entering the lagoon. The complimentary conditioner was not just a spa extra. Blue Lagoon guidance recommends putting your hair up, coating it with conditioner, and leaving it in while in the lagoon. The silica can dry out hair making it difficult to manage. Jewelry should also be removed before entering the lagoon as it the minreals damage or discolor.

Anyone interested in visiting should make a reservation in advance as well as check current admission rates, safety requirements, and operating information before a visit.

In Grundarfjörður, I took a Carnival excursion, which began with a bus ride to a boat dock. We boarded a large boat. We traveled among smaller islands in the archipelago while the guide educated us on the birdlife inhabiting the area.

From Akureyri, a prepaid Carnival excursion provided a bus, which carried us to Goðafoss, a waterfall, and another geothermal spa experience. The activity description used the word “hike” for the waterfall, but the approach to the overlook was a casual paved walk. I had prepared for more effort and laughed at how quickly it was over.

The second geothermal stop mattered because it showed me Icelandic bathing culture was larger than its most famous lagoon. When shopping for souvenirs, I encountered Icelandic Christmas folklore involving trolls. The day worked because transportation and timing were managed by the excursion, restrooms were available at the stops, and layers could be removed as the temperature changed.

While in Seyðisfjörður, I took another Carnival Excursion to hike up to the Hengifoss, which was an actual hike and required taking off many layers by the end of the trek to the very tall waterfall. Iceland saved one more wildlife moment for our departure from Seyðisfjörður. A humpback whale appeared as the ship sailed away. The sun was in our eyes and the whale was some distance away, but it still felt like a farewell performance.

The trip confirmed Iceland is a strong choice for travelers who enjoy the wildlife, outdoors, cooler temperatures, and scenery that refuses to stay visually predictable.

My honest verdict is simple: I loved seeing Iceland. The best parts were not confined to a single attraction. They came from the constant shifts—from rain to steam, from waterfalls to whales, and from careful plans to the moments no agenda could have promised.

Editorial source notes

Blue Lagoon: Changing facilities, showers, and lockers

Blue Lagoon: Hair conditioner guidance

Blue Lagoon: Jewelry guidance

Visit Reykjanes: July 2023 Litli-Hrútur eruption information

Visit North Iceland: Goðafoss waterfall and paved viewing paths